Some, including myself have noticed and lamented that Atlas code 83 flex track is
more flexible and tends to return kinda straight more easily than other brands, namely ME which seems to hold a bend pretty nicely.
I've found that if I weather my Atlas Flex using Krylon flat brown (camouflage), it has more pros than cons:
Pro
1. Now the Atlas Track holds a set(bend) like other track.
2. Track weathering is completed.
3. Over spray is easier to control
4. Cleaning rail tops is easer
5. I can use my paint booth to control fumes
Con
1. Removing the paint for installing rail joiners is a pain
2. Removing the paint to install a feeder can be a pain.
I've started using this technique, but not painting the ends and masking a spot on each side for feeder attachment. Touch up is easy after the track is laid in place.
PS,
No, I don't remember reading or seeing this anywhere, but if this is really your idea and I just never saw it, or I forgot you told me about it, well, thanks for pointing that out. JD
1 comments:
I too use Krylon camoflage brown paint to pre-spray all track I use on my HO scale layout. But I don't worry about cleaning the ends of the track for the joiners--I just slide the joiners on to connect two pieces of track. But I don't depend on the joiners to carry electrical current. Instead, I solder feeders (using rosin core solder!) on the bottoms of *every* piece of track, and every switch (turnout) I install on the layout.
I first lay the painted track (after it dries) (I do wipe the paint off the tops of the rails while the paint is wet) on the layout where it's going to be installed. Then I use a sharpie to mark the cork roadbed where I'll have to drill holes for the feeder wires. I also mark the tops of the rails for the location to solder the wires underneath.
Pick the piece of track up, lightly file under the rails where I'm going to solder the wires, then tin the rails with fresh solder. I also pre-tin the ends of the wires, and bend a 90-degree bend in one end of each wire. That bent end gets soldered to the bottom of the rail. When the holes are drilled through the cork and wood, I feed the wires through the holes, connect that piece of track to its already installed neighbor, then spike the track down.
It's easier to do than to write about!
-- chicopanther
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